Dear Friends,
We are approaching another harvest, and it fills me with excitement and anxiety. Witnessing the joy of harvest and being an active participant in the annual cycle of the grapevine is exciting. Knowing the plants are completing their year’s work in producing magnificent fruit is incredible. Yet, I must balance my excitement with the vigilance of monitoring the weather. Currently, and for the next two weeks, we are having perfect summer weather- 85 degrees in the day and 55 at night. As we go into the fall, the daytime temperature usually cools down to 75 degrees and allows the fruit to ripen at a slow pace. This extended season allows the grapes to develop complex flavors. However, my concern is about heat and rain.
In the past ten years, we have seen unexpected heat in the fall or sometimes even rain. Heat spikes take temperatures into the 90s and sometimes 100s, shorten the season, forcing us to harvest grapes before their prime. These spikes are rarely catastrophic since they affect only one section of the vineyard. Our vineyard has several grape varieties and several clones within each type that give a diversity of ripening times. Chardonnay will ripen first, followed by Pinot Noir and then the big reds. Amongst the Pinot clones, Cactus Hill ripens first, followed by Dry Farmed and 777. A heat spike event is most consequential to the block nearest the ripeness peak.
Rain, on the other hand, can be disastrous. As the fruit ripens, the skins become softer and less resilient. Rain and humidity promote fungi that begin to rot the fruit. Rain in California arrives in late October after all the grapes are picked. Every other year, it rains unexpectedly in September or early October while grapes are still on the vine. A small amount of rain, less than a half inch, may not do much damage. But a more extensive rainfall will leave water on the leaves and the fruit—perfect conditions for mold to develop and destroy the crop.
In each case, heat or rain, understanding the individual block of the vineyard and the level of resilience within the section is crucial in making thoughtful decisions. Having farmed Nicholson Ranch for over 25 years has allowed me to navigate the vagaries of each year and course correct appropriately. To this point, most of you will receive the 2019 Cactus Hill Pinot Noir. The 2019 vintage had two three-day heat events in September and a few days of a light drizzle. Despite, the uneven weather, the 2019 Cactus Hill has gone on to win the Best of Class award at the San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition, the largest competition for American wines.
As we approach harvest, here’s hoping that it is filled with calm weather and is easy and smooth.
Cheers,
Deepak Gulrajani